If you’re in the market for a new home, getting a home inspection can save you thousands of dollars down the line. Here is a checklist to help you prepare.
Getting a home inspection is an important part of buying (or even selling) a home. Home inspections are not always required—nor are they the same thing as an appraisal. An appraisal is done to determine a home’s market value, and is almost always required when taking out a mortgage.
A home inspection, on the other hand, determines whether there are any structural issues in the home (and outside of it). Yes, getting a home inspection will cost you (the average cost is $300 to $450 according to Bankrate), but the few hundred dollars can potentially save you a lot of money down the line.
“In this super-competitive housing market, waiving a home inspection can be appealing for buyers seeking to make their offers more attractive to sellers who have plenty to choose from—but buyers do so at their financial peril,” says Clare Trapasso, real estate expert at Realtor.com.
Home inspections can be especially important for first-time homebuyers—you don’t want to buy your first home and then spend thousands of dollars on major repairs that an inspection could have helped you avoid. Also, it could help you negotiate the repairs or the price of the home with the seller.
Trapasso says that things such as a cracked foundation, roof problems, and electrical and plumbing issues may not be visible to the naked eye in listing photos or during a home tour. “These problems can set new homeowners back tens of thousands of dollars on top of what they’re paying for the house and closing costs,” she explains. Plus, buyers who waive home inspections and then find things wrong with the property might not be able to back out of a deal without losing money, warns Trapasso.
A home inspection can be important if you’re looking to sell your home, too. It can help you get ahead of any big repairs or maintenance issues before listing.
Here is a checklist that can help guide you as you look at a home, and ensure you’re looking at all parts of a property. While it does not replace an actual home inspection by a certified professional, it can help you prepare for what an inspection entails.
Grounds
- Proper grading drainage away from house
- No evidence of standing water
- No leaks from septic tank or leech field
- Yard, landscaping, trees, and walkways in good condition
- No branches or brushes touching house or overhanging roof
Exterior structures
- Fences, sheds, decks, detached garages in good condition
- Railings on stairs and decks are adequate and secure
- Driveways, sidewalks, patios, entrance landings in good condition, and pitched away from structure
- Downspout drainage directed away from structure
Structure
- Ridge and fascia board lines appear straight and level
- Sides of house appear straight, not bowed or sagging
- Window and door frames appear square (especially bowed windows)
- Visible foundation in good condition
Straight, plumb, no significant cracks
Exterior Surfaces
- Adequate clearance between ground and wood siding materials
6″ minimum; no wood-to-earth contact - Siding
No cracking, curling, loose, rot, or decay - Masonry veneers
No cracks in joints
No broken, spalling or flaking components - Stucco
No large cracks
Discuss all stucco cracks with a professional inspector - Vinyl or aluminum siding
No dents or damage
No bowing or loose siding - No vines on surface of structure
- Exterior paint or stain
No flaking or blisters - No stains on exterior surfaces
Windows, Doors, and Wood Trim
- Wood frames and trim pieces
Secure, no cracks, rot, or decay - Joins around frames are caulked
- Nothing is broken or damaged
No broken glass (window or storm panes) or damaged screens
No broken double-paned, insulated window seals - Muntin and mullion glazing compound in good condition
- Storm windows or thermal glass used
- Drip caps installed over windows
Roof
- Composition shingles
No curling or cupping
No loss of granulation particulate
No broken, damaged or missing shingles
No more than two layers of roofing - Wood shingles or shakes
No mold, rot, or decay
No cracked, broken, or missing shingles
No curling - Flat roofs
No obvious patches, cracks, or splits
Minimal blisters, “alligatoring,” and wrinkles
No silt deposits (indicates improper drainage)
Sealed tar at flashings - Flashing around roof penetrations
- No evidence of excess roofing cement/tar/caulk
- Soffits and fascia
No decay or stains - Exterior venting for eave areas
Vents are clean and not painted over - Gutters
No decay or rust
Joints are sealed and attached securely to structure
No bending or sagging
No sections of gutter or downspout missing
Gutters clean, no mud deposits - Chimneys
Straight, properly flashed
No evidence of damaged bricks or cracked joints
Mortar/cement cap in good condition
Attic
- No stains on underside of roofing, especially around roof penetrations
- No evidence of decay or damage to structure
- Sufficient insulation and properly installed insulation
Moisture barrier installed closest to the heated area of the house - Adequate ventilation
Clear path into attic for air entering through soffit vents
Adequately sized gable end louvers
All mechanical ventilation operational - No plumbing, exhaust or appliance vents terminating in attic
- No open electrical splices
Interior Rooms
- Floors, walls and ceilings appear straight and plumb and level
- No stains on floors, walls, or ceilings
- Flooring materials in good condition
- No significant cracks in walls or ceilings
- Window and exterior doors operate easily and latch properly
No broken glass
No sashes painted shut
No decay
Windows and doors have weather-stripping, “weep holes” installed - Interior doors operate easily and latch properly
No damage or decay
No broken hardware - Paint, wall covering, and paneling in good condition
- Light and switches operate properly
- Adequate number of three-pronged electrical outlets in each room
- Electrical outlets test properly (spot check)
- Heating/cooling source in each habitable room
- Evidence of adequate insulation in walls
Fireplace
- No cracking or damaged masonry
No evidence of staining on fireplace facade
Damper operates properly
Flue has been cleaned, and is lined
Kitchen
- Working exhaust fan that is vented to the exterior of the building
- Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protection for electrical outlets within six feet of the sink(s)
- Dishwasher
Drains properly, no leaks
Baskets and door spring operate properly - No leaks in pipes under sinks
- Floor in cabinet under sink is solid
No stains or decay - Water flow in sink is adequate
- No excessive rust or deterioration on garbage disposal or waste pipes
- Built-in appliances operate properly
- Cabinets are in good condition
Doors and drawers operate properly
Bathrooms
- Working exhaust fan that doesn’t end in the attic space
- Adequate flow and pressure at all fixtures
- Sink, tub, and shower drain properly
- Toilet stable
No rocking
No stains around base - Caulking in good condition inside and outside of tub and shower area
- Tub or shower tiles secure, wall surface solid
- No stains or evidence of past leaking around the base of bath or shower
Miscellaneous
- Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors where required by local ordinances
- Stairway treads and risers solid
- Stair handrails where needed and in good condition
- Automatic garage door opener operates properly and stops for obstacles
Basement or Mechanical Room
- No evidence of moisture
- Exposed foundation
No stains or major cracks
No flaking or efflorescence - Visible structural wood
No sagging, damage, decay, or stains
No damage from insects
Sills attached to foundation with anchor bolts - Insulations at rim/band joists
Crawl Space
- Adequately vented to exterior
- Insulation on exposed water supply, waste, and vent pipes
- Insulation between crawl space and heated areas
Installed with vapor barrier towards heated area - No evidence of insect damage
- No evidence of moisture damage
Plumbing
- Visible pipes
- No damage, no evidence of leaks
No signs of stains on materials near pipes
Drain pipes slope slightly down towards outlet to septic/sewage system - Water heater
No signs of rust
Vented properly
Sized to produce adequate quantities of hot water for the number of bedrooms in the house - Water pump does not short cycle
- Galvanized pipes do not restrict water flow
- Well water test is acceptable
- Hot water temperature is between 118 to 125 degrees Fahrenheit
Electrical
- Visible wiring
In good condition, no “knob-and-tube” wiring
No exposed splices
Cables secured and protected - Service panel
Adequate capacity
All cables attached to panel with cable connectors
Fuss or breakers are not overheating - No aluminum cable for branch circuits
Heating/Cooling System
- Appears to operate well throughout
Good air flow on forced hot air systems - Flues
No open seams, slopes up to chimney connection - No rust around cooling unit
- No combustion gas odor
- Air filter(s) clean
- Ductwork in good condition
- No asbestos on heating pipes, water pipes, or air ducts
- Separate flues for gas/oil/propane and wood/coal
Source: Total Home Inspection